I love the journey. I love the search. I love the sense of discovery and the series of emotions that accompany a truly unique drink.
A strange whisky-fuelled euphoric moment, a mysteriously brilliant cup poured from a pot of fabulous tea, the most refreshing beer you have ever swallowed…whatever it may be, the search for more understanding of what you drink, what it's made from, who makes it and where it comes from, is a noble one.
Do you care as much as your intense author? Do you like the anonymity of consuming liquids that are just available everywhere? At your local, colour coded-shop-that-has-all-the-brands-i-have-been-told-to-buy-at-let's-go-crazy-prices-because-no-one-else-could-sell-it? If you do, that's great, but I bet a longneck of stout that if you have navigated your way to this tiny little page that you care about what's in your glass…
In Australia, and all over the world, big booze companies (think Fosters, Lion Nathan, Coca-Cola) own, control and distribute a hell of a lot of brands of beer, wine, spirits, soft drinks, energy drinks, juices and, of course, water.
Advancements in technology and the reach of globalisation helped to fuel huge growth for these companies. Relentless advertising, super slick packaging and lower prices put these big company products at the front of people's minds and their bottle shop counters. Taxing week at work, no time to think, just want a drink, grab a bottle from the shop, smooth, slim bottle, "premium", "reserve", whatever, I'll take it. Oh look, if I buy sixty, I'll get an umbrella…
I fear the acceptance of mediocrity. An acceptance of "Aussie Lager" that is near flavourless. An acceptance of "Aussie Red" that has a Panadol-like aftertaste. An acceptance of "Imported Beer" that is absolutely nothing like the traditional drink of the malt fermenters of said region. An acceptance of heading down to a "Garden" and paying exorbitant prices for drinks that faintly resemble their better, tastier, more flavoursome and often more environmentally ethical cousins. There's a small brewery in Victoria who pay their staff a dollar for every day that they ride their bike or catch public transport to work. There is also a large brewery in Victoria who are widely advertised and distributed…all their beers taste nearly exactly the same and are much cheaper. I know where I will spend my money...
I think about the travellers. I have been one, in another country, trusting my own tastes, thinking that something is amazing…what if the Dutch guy at the "Garden" for one night only thought that his beer that is "Extra Dry" was an Australian flavour icon? He probably doesn't care! But I do!!!
The choice is sometimes taken out of the equation…I know what I will be faced with at the bar when I head to my "local" AFL stadium this winter. I also know that when a winemaker is also the grower, the farmer, the cellar-hand & the cleaner, the booze is always better. Always.
I'm not suggesting we boycott everything that is big and brand-built. These companies have their place in the market, but I think that there is so much more value for money and flavour driven products that we can find. What can you do? Spend a little more. Buy local, and I mean really local; not from brands that appear on television selling us their version of "local". Anyway, if they can afford to be on television, they could probably afford better ingredients.
Two For Review:
I was recently handed a cold bottle of Carlton Crown Lager (Melbourne, Vic, $17.99/six pack, 4.9% ABV), something that I would not ordinarily look to consume. With the most open mind that I could muster, I drank this beer as I would any. It has a sweetish entry, followed by some disturbing tang, carrying the aroma of a wet/old jumper. The mid palate is full of much of the same and there is no discernable malt character that one would expect from "Australia's Finest"…in fact this beer does not showcase any pleasant malt or hop flavours whatsoever. It finishes dryish, while the aromas and aftertaste left in your mouth are akin to the smell of a really old and dirty farmshed. The slogan is a lie and they should be made to change it. There is possibly no worse beer in Australia than this.
Islay is a small Scottish island that lies about 40km north of the Irish coastline. The inhabitants of Islay are very good at two things; bird watching and making, in my opinion, some of the most amazing Whisky that you will ever get your hands on. Whilst there are various styles produced by the eight distilleries on the island, my favourite is the heavier peated, medicinal-like salty beasts that offer so much value for money, providing your palate with the most excellent onslaught of flavour and intensity. Laphroaig Quarter Cask (Islay, Scotland, $109/700mL, 48% ABV) is a whisky for the ages. I am still on a journey with the whisky thing, but I know a unique (see article, above) piece of booze when I see it. It smells of mandarin and toffee (to me!) and threatens to flatten the nasal passages with it's fireplace warmth. Mouth filling smoke and malt are the hallmarks of the palate, there is also some sweetness and an almost carrot like vegetal finish. Sheer power, with finesse and length. Every time I drink it, I see more. Truly great.
Coming soon: A trilogy on Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Also, a good hard look at Stout.
